Free-Mo #1 Part 2

OK, I said I wouldn't get any more done before leaving. I didn't get MUCH done, but did lay a styrofoam base onto the module. The way the spacing of my frame and the thickness of foam I have on hand worked out, I will be adding a 1/2" plywood subroadbed.

Under the throwbars, I'll cut out access holes like this one for Tortoises. From underneath, the Tortoise will just stick out from the foam enough to make wiring easy.

That's really, absolutely, positively all the work I'm going to get done until after 4/14.

Free-Mo Module #1

Managed to get a little work done on the module this past week. The basic frame is built, endplates have leg pockets attached and the "spine" is glued & screwed in so that the ends are perfectly plumb & even. I've settled on a basic 24" x 72" factor for my straight modules, they'll be fastened together in pairs (railheads facing) that will measure 18" x 24" x 73". I can then fit two pairs of modules into the back of my Saratoga by removing the rear seats.

This first module is a John Allen Timesaver. I planned out the trackwork onto 1/4" thick Luan plywood, then cut out the roadbed with a saber saw set at an angle for proper roadbed bevel. I like this better than cork because it's more stable, takes glue and spikes better, and ensures that the roadbed is perfectly smooth from end to end. The drawbacks are that it must be done right, the first time, and changes are very difficult. It's also kind of pricey, since there is a lot of scrap wood created. On a simpler plan, single siding for example, I'll probably go with cork - but this method is nice for a more complicated track plan.

In the 2nd picture, the roadbed is cut out and all the ties are glued into place. I used carpenter's glue and set the CVT tie strips into it. I used a piece of rail to ensure that all the ties lined up properly and weighted each strip for a few minutes to ensure it didn't shift. Prior to laying the tie strips I airbrushed them with Polly Scale Tie Brown. In this picture you can see frog castings are glued in place but no other switchwork done yet. The roadbed is drilled out for the Tortoise machines under the throwbars.

I've ordered Code 83 wire from Proto87.com (not doing Proto:87 specs, just ordering rail from them) but it's not going to be here for a while, so I bought 4 pieces of Atlas code 83 flextrack and stripped off the rail to give me 8 pieces of rail. Should be enough to finish most of this module. I airbrushed the sides of the rail with Polly Scale Rust then cleaned off the railheads with a "Brite Boy" eraser. The tie strips from CVT are the 8' 6" version, which has rail anchors and spikes molded in such that you just lay the rail in place and "push" the anchors and spikes over onto the base of the rail. No spiking, no gluing. It really works great - very quick & easy, and it's self-gauging so much simpler than traditional handlaying. The turnout kits don't have the push-over anchors, so you either need to glue or spike the rail down. I chose to spike on this first one, I haven't been able to find the glue they recommend (Barge) locally. The 3rd and 4th pictures show the switch and mainline rail respectively.

I'll finish up the trackwork, solder on feeders, and then build a subroadbed to lay everything out on. I'm going to use Styrofoam for the subroadbed, I think with the Luan ply that the track will be well supported and I can even attach the Tortoises directly to the Luan. Basically I'm just going to layer Styrofoam up on the module frame to roadbed height, put the track piece down, and then add/remove foam as needed for scenic purposes. I'll hold off ballasting until the track goes onto the module.

By the way, I had to have something to go ON the track, to "make sure it works" :-) This is the Atlas Gold Series C-420 in A&M colors. The hobby shop (Tractive Effort in Fayetteville) ran it for me, the sound features are FANTASTIC. It actually runs great on DC, including sound features and built-in momentum capabilities. You can program a lot of features without DCC, using controls from a power pack and a magnetic "wand" to actuate a reed switch. The locomotive SPEAKS its configuration values through the sound circuit! Loco is shown here fresh out of the box other than the Kadees, but I have the horn, proper headlight, and ditch lights to add to it as well.

Unfortunately nothing is going to get done on this for the next couple of weeks, I'll be in London visiting my daughter then in Tucson for a friend's wedding. Then we move into the new house, and hopefully I can get this module put together pretty quickly after that.